Why you won’t regret a road trip along the Beara Peninsula
Raise your hand if you’ve had a crazy year so far!
You aren’t alone, friend.
Honestly, I can hardly remember what normal is anymore… although I’m starting to think these extra ten pounds are it!
When so much around me feels so upside down, I find it helpful to remind myself what it really means to be home.
That can certainly be a physical place, but isn’t it also a feeling?
Like what it feels like to finally share a meal again with an old friend, cozy my toes into my favourite pair of wellies, or going for a long hike with the doggies.
I know I can’t change what society or the world is like, so I’m doing my best to accept it and lean into the feeling of home.
Sometimes, even just the smell of salty sea air or the smell of freshly cut hay can take me there.
Now you tell me: what is the feeling of home for you?
When I was a child, Beara was home.
It was normal. It was what I knew. Like, really knew - every corner, every road, every beach, every mountain range. My soul and mind was deeply connected to this place - but you don’t realise that as a child.
Spending several years abroad has opened my eyes to the beauty of the Beara Peninsula and made me cherish it even more. And I feel so lucky to call Beara home again now.
So this is not only my most personal blog post but it’s also filled with the best recommendations and tips I have. Let’s go!
The Beara Peninsula, situated in the south-west of Ireland on the Wild Atlantic Way, offers some breathtaking views and spectacular scenery. Whether it’s sunny with blue skies when you’re there or misty and moody, I’m sure you’re going to love it and will never forget your time there.
Beara is situated both in County Kerry and County Cork with most of it being part of West Cork. You’ll find picturesque and colourful fishing villages every few kilometres. Have your camera ready wherever you go!
And you’ll want to take your time driving around the peninsula, exploring the beautiful area and stopping off at lovely beaches or historical sights such as stone circles and ring forts.
Bantry is the springboard for trips to the Beara Peninsula. Take the road (N71) to Glengarriff to start your drive along the Ring of Beara. Along the road to Glengarriff you’ll see the Eccles Hotel, a grande dame of West Cork hotels. The hotel overlooks Glengarriff Harbour and Bantry Bay and has great Spa.
Glengarriff is a lovely little town with neatly painted shopfronts, cafés, pubs and craft shops. Expect it to be overrun in summer with tourists, but it’s lovely and quiet in late spring and early autumn. The area around Glengarriff is filled with beautiful green gardens, islands and thick woods.
Garnish or Garinish Island, which is also known as Ilnacullin, is a small island located in Glengarriff’s harbour. It was turned into an exotic garden in 1910 and is a must if you love flowers and plants. Especially May and June are spectacular with beautiful displays of rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias. There’s also a Italianate garden on the island with a lovely ornamental lily pool. Take a boat from Glengarriff Harbour to see the island and be sure to have your camera ready if one of the many seals in Bantry Bay decides to say hi (you’ll spot several of them on the rocks as well). There’s also Glengarriff Bamboo Park - another exotic garden but this time featuring bamboo and palms.
Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve is another must if you love nature as much as we do and prefer to travel slow. Situated in the northwest of Glengarriff village, it was once the private estate of the Earl of Bantry. Thanks to that, the ancient oak woodland is still there and wow - it’s beautiful! There are big old trees, ferns, mosses, squirrels and otters and kingfishers along the river. Walking trails take you from the main car park through the nature reserve and it’s such a great place to explore, let everything in your mind go where it belongs, take a deep breath and reconnect with nature. The Nature Reserve features a range of walking trails (currently five) and picnic areas.
If you’re spending more than one day on the Beara Peninsula (I highly recommend a minimum of 2-3 days - travel slow!), follow the N71 to Kenmare after leaving Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve.
> Hiking enthusiasts: Go left at a fork and follow the signs to Barley Lake to start on of our best hill walking adventures in West Cork. Barley Lake is 300m above sea level and the views from up there - spectacular (I know, again!). The road to the small car park already feels like an adventure and I’m not lying when I tell you it’s been one of the best days in my life exploring the area. It’s not an easy hike and navigation can be hard in this kind of terrain, the lakes itself are a good guide though. Be sure to pack boots, rain gear, map, compass and food + water.
Back on the N71 to Kenmare, the road takes you up to the Caha Pass. While I prefer the Healy Pass road because of its peacefulness (and the sheep), the Caha Pass has all the views you’re going to love. The views of Bantry Bay are breathtaking and you can spot Barley Lake as well. The road takes you from County Cork to County Kerry, with the Kerry side having multiple tunnels carved into the rock. Passing through them is a little adventure (especially kids will love it). Be sure to check out Bonane Heritage Park, Lorge Chocolatier and Molly Gallivan’s on your way to Kenmare.
Let’s get back to Glengarriff now though, so I can continue our tour along the Cork side of Beara. Leaving Glengarriff, turn onto the R572, signed for Castletownbere.
On your way from Glengarriff to Adrigole, enjoy the views on the Bantry Bay to your left. Take your time to make several stops along the way - the views are worth it, whether it’s the bay to your left or the mountain range to your right.
Adrigole is not only known for offering plenty of opportunities for water sports, it’s also the start of the spectacular Healy Pass Road. The pass road connects Cork with Kerry and I absolutely love it there. You probably know it’s one of my favourite places in Ireland. It has it all - peacefulness, nature, views and sheep. Take your time to explore it, feel it and enjoy it. The sheep are very curious here and I bet they’ll come and say hello to you if you take the time to connect.
Healy Pass offers great views of Bantry Bay and the spectacular landscape of West Cork. Continue driving up the pass road to the other side of the Caha Mountains and you won’t be disappointed either with views on Kenmare River/Bay, Glanmore Lake and the beautiful and rugged landscape that is so unique for Beara. Hungry Hill is to the west of the pass - the highest mountain in the Caha Mountain range and great for hill walking and hiking.
> If you have more than one day planned for Beara, drive the Healy Pass and follow the road to Kenmare on one day and come back another day to continue driving the Ring of Beara from Adrigole to Eyeries.
Castletownbere (or Castletown Berehaven) is nestled between the hills of the Caha range and Slieve Miskish Mountains. It’s the main town on the peninsula and has the second safest natural harbour in the world. The peninsula, especially Castletownbere, was once a haven for smugglers.
Nowadays Castletownbere is busy with fishing trawlers and is one of Ireland’s major fishing ports and Ireland’s largest whitefish port. Castletownbere has a touch of the “real“ Ireland many tourists are looking for. For me, it’s one of the most charming and beautiful towns in West Cork and I can highly recommend it.
> Blog Post: The Top 5 things you better not miss in Beara this summer
Across the harbour lies Bere Island, a lovely island for hiking and exploring. Take the ferry from Castletownbere to get there (parking around SuperValu and the pier) and start your adventure!
The sailings take about 10-15 minutes and the ferries sail year-around. There’s another ferry departing from Pontoon pier, 5km east of Castletownbere, which drops you off by the island’s main village.
I recommend exploring the island by foot or bike, because you wouldn’t want to miss any of those amazing views! There are a few places to eat, drink and stay and the views from Ardnakinna Lighthouse are spectacular. The island’s strategic position has assured it a place in history (Napoleonic wars, World War I…). Be sure to check out the Bere Island Heritage Centre on your way - it’s a great place to learn something about Bere Island’s unique heritage.
My parents, especially my Dad, took me for long hikes and walks around Bere Island several times a year. I remember loosing all sense of time and space there. I usually was so tired after a day exploring the island that I fell asleep as soon as we were back on the ferry to Castletownbere (if there wasn’t a dog on board). The deep waters of Bantry Bay are not only famous in our human world - dolphins, whales and basking sharks are also regular visitors. Whenever we went out fishing in this small wooden rowing boat, I used to watch the dolphins swimming alongside the boat or jumping out of the water in the distance.
About 2km northwest of Castletownbere, you’ll find Derreenataggart Stone Circle, consisting of 10 stones. It’s right by the road and worth a visit. If you follow the road further along, you can enjoy some of the best views on Castletownbere town, Bere Island, Bantry Bay and the other two peninsulas of West Cork: Sheep’s Head and Mizen Head. You’ll finally reach Teernahillane and Teernahillane Ring Fort.
West of Castletownbere you’ll find Dunboy Castle and Puxley Mansion, home to the Puxley family back in the days.
On your way from Castletownbere to Allihies, turn left onto the road to Lamb’s Head to see Dursey Island - with Ireland’s only cable car. Dursey Island is separated from the mainland by a narrow stretch of water called the Dursey Sound.
It is known for its very strong tidal reef and the reason why it is so unsafe for boats and accessible only by cable car. The almost treeless island itself is very popular with bird watchers and great for hiking - be sure to respect the wildlife and nature you’re walking on though. Dursey Island is one of the few unspoiled places and is home to many birds - and we don’t want it to change.
> The cable car is closed right now due to maintenance but is supposed to be open again in November 2022.
The north side of the Beara Peninsula is very scenic and is a great place for exploring with its often steep and twisting minor roads, rugged coastline, sheep and green fields.
Allihies was the centre of the copper-mining district until the 1930s and you can still see the tall chimneys from afar. Now it’s a lovely and colourful village. Spend a lovely day or a few hours on Ballydonegan strand and have lunch or dinner in Allihies afterwards.
> Blog Post: Why Beara is a paradise for foodies (and especially gluten-free foodies!)
Allihies is also home to the Allihies Copper Mine Museum, telling the history of copper-mining in the area, the miners and the Puxley family, who owned the mines.
On your way to Kenmare, take the R575 to explore the island even further and be sure to stop at the picturesque village of Eyeries, famous for its brightly painted cottages and Ardgroom, which is the perfect start for exploring the surrounding area and the valley around Glenbeg Lough.
Gleninchaquin Park provides breathtaking landscapes, views and a whole range of things to do and explore. It’s perfect for exploring all day long, whether you’re alone or with your entire family. The park features six walking routes and the routes take you around the beautiful waterfall, streams, woodlands and lakes. Even dogs are welcome here, but be sure to keep them under control, especially when you are close to livestock.
> Blog Post: The 3 Top Dog Friendly Things to do on the Beara Peninsula
As if Neala was sensing my memories of our walks around Beara, she’s sitting in front of my desk right now, having that very collie-like look in her eyes: WALKIES?! Come on!
I guess I’ve already told you enough about the Beara Peninsula today - although I have to admit I could go on and on. If there’s anything else you like to know about Beara, be sure to send me a DM or mail. I’m happy to help.
Until then, happy planning! Your 2022 and 2023 trips are waiting for you!
Etta x