Castletownbere, or Castletown Berehaven (or just ‘Castletown’ as it’s known locally), is not only the biggest town on the Beara Peninsula. It’s also a must-see if you’re around and a true hidden gem in the southwest (if you ask me).

Castletown is where I spent most of my childhood. Rainy winters with heavy fog that turned our garden into a secluded world of its own. Beautiful summer days that were spent at the beach or with the ponies, exploring the unique and spectacular landscape of Beara.

Like I wrote in my blogpost about West Cork, West Cork and Beara are known for their creative community - arts and crafts, storytelling, traditional music and great festivals (when Covid is over).

Growing up here has made me kind and passionate and I was able to develop a strong connection to nature and arts. It made and still makes me value the good things in life. People care for each other here, which I value even more after moving away in my teens. Beara helps you to slow down, to breathe and to reconnect with nature. If there’s one place I call home, it’s Castletown and Beara.

Where?

Castletownbere is situated on the Beara Peninsula, on the lip of the Bantry Bay, tucked beside the sea and surrounded by my favourite Slieve Miskish mountains and the majestic Caha Mountains, with Hungry Hill being the highest peak.

Some Facts

The town is Ireland’s premier whitefish fishing port, but, thanks to being part of the Wild Atlantic Way, tourism is also important.
Berehaven Harbour is the second safest natural harbour in the world (from what I’m being told I was amazed by this fact as a child and had to tell everyone about it).
During World War I, the United States Navy established U.S. Naval Air Station Berehaven Ireland.
Dr Aidan MacCarthy (1913-1995), born and raised in Castletownbere, was an Irish doctor of the Royal Air Force and a prisoner of war in Japan during WWII. He survived the atomic bombing of Nagasaki in 1945 and was given a samurai sword by a Japanese officer at the end of the war. His daughter Adrienne MacCarthy owns the famous MacCarthy’s bar in Castletownbere, which is a must-see whenever you’re around.
‘A Doctor’s Sword’ (about Aidan MacCarthy’s life) is one of my all-time favourite books. If you love Ireland and Beara and are interested in learning something new about a great doctor in WWII, this is a must-read.
Daphne du Maurier’s novel ‘Hungry Hill’ was named after the mountain peak here.
‘Ondine’, starring Colin Farrell and directed by Oscar winning Irish filmmaker Neil Jordan, was filmed around Castletownbere and the Beara Peninsula. Although the film is really well acted and the story is great, it’s Beara’s spectacular scenery that makes the film so special. I highly recommend watching it!
Castletownbere Tourist Office is located in one of the nicest places: the grounds of Saint Peter’s Church. And although the tourist office isn’t open all year round, the staff are amazing and always happy to help, so be sure to stop by whenever you have questions while exploring Castletownbere and the Beara Peninsula.

Things To Do

Castletownbere is the perfect base if you’re exploring the Beara Peninsula. If you like to read more about the Beara Peninsula, my blog post here features all the highlights. But already Castletownbere itself has so much to offer.

Here are my 10 favourite things to do in and around Castletownbere:

1 Town and Harbour

Strolling around the town and harbour is definitely worth a recommendation. Enjoy the views on Bere Island, explore the small shops, enjoy a cup of tea (and fine lunch) in one of the fantastic pubs and visit the colourful fishing boats (big and small). The market square is the place to be, especially on the first Thursday of each month, when the market is the busiest (the other Thursdays are great fun as well, though).

If you’re interested in churches, visit the Sacred Heart Catholic Church, a freestanding Gothic Revival style Roman Catholic Church, built 1907. Take the flight of steps from the street between SuperValu und the Square to approach the entrance.

2 Dunboy Castle and Puxley Mansion

Castletownbere and Dunboy Castle was once seat of the O’Sullivan Bere, a Gaelic clan leader. The castle itself was built to defend and control the harbour of Berehaven. Dunboy was destroyed during the Siege of Dunboy in the summer of 1602, during the rebellion of the O’Sullivan Bere clan against the English crown. The ruined castle is still visible and can be visited. A lovely loop trail along the coast with amazing views on Bere Island, the bay and the sea starts here. Be sure to bring your camera.

While approaching the ruins of Dunboy Castle, there’s Puxley Mansion on your right hand side, a manor house from the 19th century. It was burnt by the IRA in 1920. I remember exploring the ruins as a child in the 90s. While there where plans to open it as a hotel in the early 2000s and a lot of restoration work was done, the banking crash ended the dreams of having a luxury hotel on the Beara Peninsula.

3 Derreenataggart Stone Circle + Teernahillane Ringfort

Derreenataggart Stone Circle is about 1.5km west of Castletown, close to the road leading to Teernahillane Ringfort and Lios Lara Riding Stables. There’s a small parking space on the left (when coming from town), with the small gate leading to the stone circle on the right hand side. Eight of the stones of this stone circle are standing, including one of the portal stones. The other portal stone has broken and several other stones have fallen.

Follow the road leading to Teernahillane and continue on the road until you reach Teernahillane Ringfort in a field on the right hand side. There’s a small parking space right in front of the gate leading to the stone fort. The ring fort itself is beautiful and there’s a small tree growing on it ever since I can remember (ringforts are commonly referred to as fairy forts and as I was told as child, it is considered unlucky to cut (hawthorn) trees that grow in them). The ringfort is usually surrounded by sheep and the sunsets (on a bright day) are amazing there.

4 Bere Island

Across the harbour lies Bere Island, a lovely island for hiking and exploring. Take the ferry from Castletownbere to get there (there’s plenty of parking space around SuperValu) and start your adventure! The sailings take about 10-15 minutes and the ferries sail year-around. There’s another ferry departing from Pontoon pier, 5km east of Castletownbere, which drops you off by the island’s main village. In case you’re more into walking and are keen on exploring the area around the island’s lighthouse, we would prefer the ferry leaving from town.

We recommend exploring the island by foot or bike, because you wouldn’t want to miss any of those amazing views! There are great places to eat, drink and stay and the views from Ardnakinna Lighthouse are spectacular. The island’s strategic position has assured it a place in history (Napoleonic wars, World War I…). Be sure to check out the Bere Island Heritage Centre on your way - it’s a great place to learn something about the conversation and enhancement of Bere Island’s unique heritage. Bere Island has not only been awarded Ireland’s tidiest island five times in a row, the people on the island are also very friendly and kind.

My parents, especially my Dad, took me for long hikes and walks around Bere Island several times a year. I remember loosing all sense of time and space there. I usually was so tired after a day exploring the island that I fell asleep as soon as we were back on the ferry to Castletownbere (if there wasn’t a dog on board). The deep waters of Bantry Bay are not only famous in our human world - dolphins, whales and basking sharks are also regular visitors. Whenever we went out fishing in this small wooden rowing boat, I used to watch the dolphins swimming alongside the boat or jumping out of the water in the distance. I loved it, but I didn’t really appreciate it - it was my „normal“ back then.

5 MacCarthy’s Bar

Definitely my #1 must-visit in Castletownbere. Not only is this famous pub owned by Adrienne MacCarthy, who’s a wonderful woman and a great storyteller, it was also the cover of the bestseller ‘McCarthy’s Bar’ by Pete McCarthy. At least as famous as the pub itself and Adrienne MacCarthy (the daughter of famous Aidan MacCarthy) is Adrienne’s sweet pug. Keeping pugs is a tradition of Adrienne and her sister Niki and I can’t think of a time when there wasn’t one (or more) pug around. The buzzing atmosphere in this pub is special and you’re going to love it here. Please say hi to Adrienne from me if you have the chance of meeting her.

6 Healy Pass Road

Adrigole is not only known for offering plenty of opportunities for water sports, it’s also the start of the spectacular Healy Pass Road. The pass road connects Cork with Kerry and we absolutely love it there. You probably know it’s one of our favourite places in Ireland. It has it all - peacefulness, nature, views and sheep. Take your time to explore it, feel it and enjoy it. The sheep are very curious here and we bet they’ll come and say hello to you if you take the time to connect.

From the Healy Pass there are great views of Bantry Bay and the spectacular landscape of West Cork. Continue driving up the pass road to the other side of the Caha Mountains and you won’t be disappointed either with views on Kenmare River/Bay, Glanmore Lake and the beautiful and rugged landscape that is so unique for Beara. Hungry Hill is to the west of the pass - the highest mountain in the Caha Mountain range and great for hill walking and hiking.

If you have more than one day planned for Beara, drive the Healy Pass and follow the road to Kenmare on one day and come back another day to continue driving the Ring of Beara from Adrigole to Eyeries.

7 The Beara Way

Note: dogs are not permitted on the Beara Way.

Besides this sad fact, the Beara Way Walking Route offers spectacular views on the beautiful scenery of the coast and mountains. If you love hiking, this is definitely a great choice for you. In case you are visiting with your dog: there are plenty of other dog-friendly walking and hiking options around Castletownbere.

8 Horse Riding

As I’ve spent several hundred hours on horseback around Castletownbere in my life so far, I definitely recommend it as one of the best ways to explore Beara.

In case you can’t bring your own horse with you, visit Lios Lara Riding Stables near Teernahillane Ringfort.

With Ireland’s first Horse Trail, the Beara Bridle Way, having been completed this year, it is now even easier and nicer to explore the Beara Peninsula on horseback. The trail spans from Castletownbere to Allihies and the views from it are spectacular.

9 Explore the area by boat

One of my favourites, wherever I am, is exploring the area by boat. Castletownbere and the Beara Peninsula offer some great adventures when it comes to boat trips. I can recommend checking out Bere Island Sea Safari, departing from Bere Island and Castletownbere, and Dursey Boat Trips, departing from Garnish Pier (near Dursey Island). In case you’re staying in Bantry, check out Bantry Bay Charters.

10 Sarah Walker Gallery

If you love art as much as I do, please don’t miss this! The Sarah Walker Gallery on the pier of Castletownbere Harbour is a contemporary art gallery, featuring Sarah Walker pairings and other artist’s work.

… and more on the Beara Peninsula:

11 Allihies + Dursey Island

If you’re in the mood of exploring more than Castletownbere, you might want to see Allihies and Dursey Island. On your way from Castletownbere to Allihies, turn left onto the road to Lamb’s Head to see Dursey Island - with Ireland’s only cable car.

Allihies was the centre of the copper-mining district until the 1930s and you can still see the tall chimneys from afar. Now it’s a lovely and colourful village. Spend a lovely day or a few hours on Ballydonegan Beach and have lunch or dinner in Allihies afterwards. Allihies is also home to the Allihies Copper Mine Museum, telling the history of copper-mining in the area, the miners and the Puxley family, who owned the mines. Read more about what to do on the Beara Peninsula in my blog post here.

Where to eat

1 Murphy’s Restaurant

The #1 in Castletownbere when it comes to fresh fish. The staff are friendly, their menu is amazing and I can’t recommend it enough.

2 MacCarthy’s Bar

And again, I cannot recommend MacCarthy’s Bar enough. Enjoy the vegetable soup or some yummy sandwiches (LOVED those as a child) or wraps. Gluten free bread, soup and wraps are usually available.

3 The Tea Room

The best Tea Room in Ireland. It’s cosy, welcoming and stylish in here and the food is so delicious - teas, coffee and yummy cakes.

4 Fuchsia Café

A lovely café. Very friendly staff and although it is small inside, there’s plenty of seating outside. The breakfast is delicious here. Lovely gluten free and vegan options available.

5 Berehaven Lodge

Setting, food and atmosphere are lovely here. It is said to be one of the best restaurants around.

6 Breens Lobster Bar

Great selection of fresh fish, the service is excellent and the menu is lovely. You won’t be disappointed! It’s always very busy, so better make a reservation just to be sure.

7 The Beara Coast Hotel

The Beara Coast Hotel underwent a huge renovation a few years back and I really like “the new” hotel. The quality of the food is impressive. Very friendly staff.

Where to stay

1 The Old Medical Hall B&B

Located in a beautifully restored building right above the Tea Room, the Old Medical Hall is a lovely B&B. The rooms are clean and comfortable.

2 Island View B&B

I remember my mam always booking rooms here for friends when they were visiting. The B&B is clean, well maintained and the views are great from up there.

3 Dzogchen Beara - Buddhist Meditation Centre

Views! Such a beautiful place to be. I highly recommend visiting the meditation centre, even if it’s just for a few hours (the gardens and coffee shop are definitely worth a visit). The cottages are cosy and very tidy. Have I already mentioned the views?

4 Sea Breeze B&B

Beautiful B&B. The location is great and the views are amazing.

5 Domhain Eile in Castletownbere

The house itself here is brilliant and I honestly love everything about it. It’s quiet here, it’s peaceful and if you can’t think of a better way to spend your days than to enjoy the nature around here, it’s perfect for you as well.

6 Berehaven Lodge

Beautiful location overlooking the bay and Bere Island. The lodges are comfortable and well equipped.

That’s it for now! I can’t wait to hear what you liked best. Enjoy beautiful Castletown!

Etta x

In case you’re travelling with your doggo, here is my blog post about our favourite dog-friendly airbnbs and hotels in Ireland.

My perfect 3 day Ireland itinerary >> read more <<

My perfect 10 day Ireland itinerary >> read more <<

The Ring of Kerry - my favourites >> read more <<

Top 5 - West Cork >> read more <<

Castletownbere - My Favourites