West Cork - My Highlights
If I really had to choose…
Can I be honest with you? This blog post has been THE hardest blog post I’ve ever written. My heart belong to West Cork, especially Beara, and if you get me started…
But I’m not writing a book (yet), so I wanted to keep it short and “highlight-y“ for you.
This blog post here is filled with my highlights of West Cork. If you think you’re going to love it here after reading this blog post (I bet you do!), you’ll enjoy my future blog posts about Beara, Mizen Head, Sheep’s Head and Bantry as well. Join our mailing list now to be the first in line as soon as they’re online. Plus get our 3 Ireland checklists for FREE. Sounds great? Go check it out (down below).
But back to West Cork. That’s what you’re here for, right?
What is it about West Cork that makes it so special and beautiful you might ask. You probably know I spent most of my childhood in West Cork and Beara, so West Cork is packed with childhood memories. Not only for me but for so many other people.
Golden beaches, a very significant coastline, tiny green fields, red fuchsia, wild gorse, mountains, sheep… West Cork gives you a Mediterranean feeling rather than the Atlantic one you expect.
A couple who comes to West Cork year after year for their holidays once told me:
>> Tomorrow’s worries are far far away here and you can enjoy today as if there was no tomorrow. No worries about the future, no overthinking, just today. It’s so relaxing. <<
And it is true. Nature sets the pace in beautiful West Cork in the southwest of Ireland. It stretches from the picturesque south-coast town of Kinsale to the Atlantic and the three peninsulas of Beara, Sheep’s Head and Mizen Head.
Everything in West Cork is perfect for long active days outside in the salty air. Whether it’s at the gorgeous beaches, safe and very picturesque harbours or in tiny coves. You can swim, sail, surf, do whale watching, dive, spot wildlife/birds, go kayaking, go pony-trekking, go hiking or just enjoy some of the amazing fresh and local food West Cork has to offer.
Already getting a sense of how amazing West Cork is?
Winters can be long and hard down here but overall, nature is gentle and generous in West Cork. Thanks to that, West Cork has a great food culture. You can find wonderful and award-winning artisan producers, farmers and chefs here. No wonder our favourite farmers’ markets are all situated in West Cork.
The lovely temperate micro-climate and subtropical gardens make you wonder if you’re really in Ireland and if you’re a fan of plants and flowers, you’re going to love the beautiful lanes thick with fuchsia, colourful hydrangeas and bright orange montbretia. The colours seem to pop in West Cork and there’s colour everywhere - whether it’s the flowers, the glimpses of blue water through the bushes or soft greens (golden-brown in autumn and winter - love it!).
West Cork makes you believe the word “picturesque“ was invented here. There are so many beautiful seaside towns - Glandore, Schull, Ballydehob, Skibbereen, Baltimore, Castletownbere, Bantry, Allihies… to name a few. Brightly painted cottages, nestled into the landscape. Is the picture emerging in your head? Click!
Not to forget all the castles, ruins, ring forts and stone circles you can explore.
You’re more into adventure than plants, history and colours? West Cork has got you covered.
Fancy… climbing up to a mountain pass? Crossing the bridge to the end of Mizen Head with an amazing view on the Atlantic and a chance of spotting whales? Doing some whale watching from a boat? Taking the cable car to Dursey Island? Or why not explore one or more of the several islands in West Cork!
The southwest coast is one of the best places for whale watching. Try Whale Watch West Cork in Baltimore, they are amazing.
Baltimore itself is beautiful as well. It has a lively quayside and is dedicated maritime. It is the ferry port for the islands of Sherkin and Cape Clear and can get quite crowded in summer.
Cape Clear is both the southernmost inhabited and southernmost Gaeltacht island. There’s a great storytelling festival every September (Cape Clear Island International Storytelling Festival) which brings people from all over the world to West Cork.
Beyond Cape Clear you can see the imposing Fastnet Lighthouse. It is known as Ireland’s tear drop. For emigrants to the new world, this was their last sight of their home land.
Crookhaven with its sheltered location is a beautiful little fishing village. It’s peaceful there and the area is filled with history - smuggling, battles, shipwrecks, Spanish galleons, miners, soldiers, emigrants… you can’t help but wonder what the land has seen.
Is this blue even real? Barleycove is one of the best beaches we know. Its golden sands, sand dunes and blue water are definitely worth a visit. Make a stop there on your way to Mizen Head or spend a whole day at Barleycove beach swimming and building sand castles - it’s all possible here.
Mizen Head is beautiful at any time. You might be lucky to spot some whales but even if they aren’t around, the relentless waves and beautiful rough cliffs are worth it. Not to forget the views you get from up there. Follow the path over the bridge linking the two islands and explore the lighthouse / fog signal station with its exhibition of earlier days. Memories of past times are strong and alive here at Mizen Head and you can’t stop thinking about how life was like back then.
Sheep’s Head Peninsula is a must if you love hiking. The views left to Three Castle Head and the Mizen Peninsula and right over to the Beara Peninsula are breathtaking. The whole peninsula is amazing for spending a day exploring it all - lakes, beaches, paths up the mountain, churches, secluded coves or burial grounds. And everywhere - those views! The road ends at a car park with a visitor centre and café near by (Tooreen Turning Table). From there a circular walking trail starts out to the Sheep Head’s Lighthouse and back again. No dogs were allowed the last time we stopped there, so keep this in mind if your pawsome friend is travelling with you.
On your way from Sheep’s Head to the Beara Peninsula, make sure to explore the lovely town of Bantry. To know more about our favourite activities, shops and places to eat, check this blog post here.
You don’t want to miss Bantry House and Gardens, a Georgian stately home built in the 18th century. The gardens are beautiful and the views on the bay are wonderful from up there. The tea room is lovely and especially the artwork on show is worth a visit if you love history.
Fun fact: If you’re a fan of the German “Rosamunde Pilcher“ tv series (my Mum loved it), you might recognise Bantry House from one of the movies.
Glengarriff is another must-stop place, especially if you love plants and/or seals. Visit the Bamboo Park and explore Garinish/Garnish Island.
On your way from Glengarriff to Castletownbere, keep an eye out for the Healy Pass in Adrigole - views!
Castletownbere is not only the main town on the Beara Peninsula, but also Ireland’s largest whitefish port. You’ll find its busy port filled with colourful fishing trawlers. Across its large natural harbour lies Bere Island and the bay is overlooked by the ruins of Dunboy Castle and Puxley Manor. Of course we’ll do an extra blog post on the Beara Peninsula soon!
On your way from Castletownbere to Allihies, turn left onto the road to Lamb’s Head to see Dursey Island - with Ireland’s only cable car. Dursey Island is separated from the mainland by a narrow stretch of water called the Dursey Sound. It is known for its very strong tidal reef and the reason why it is so unsafe for boats.
The island itself is very popular with bird watchers and great for hiking - be sure to respect the wildlife and nature you’re walking on though. Dursey Island is one of the few unspoiled places and is home to many birds - and we don’t want it to change. The views from the mainland are great as well and on a clear day you can even spot Skellig Michael in the distance.
Head back onto the main road to Allihies which you’ll recognise immediately when it comes into view - thanks to the brightly coloured cottages. Copper mining has been part of Allihies’ life and history since the Bronze Age.
Another village famous for its brightly coloured cottages is Eyeries, which you can visit right after enjoying a lovely lunch or cup of tea in Allihies.
And I could go on and on… But as this blog post is about my highlights in West Cork, I’m going to stop here. There’s more to come - blog posts about each of the peninsulas, Bantry, the Healy Pass, Castletownbere… I can’t wait to share it with you soon!
Cork is proudly “the rebel county“ and West Cork is both very Irish and cosmopolitan. Many people have decided to stay and make this beautiful area their home. What I love besides the breathtaking landscape is the strong creative community - arts and crafts, storytelling, traditional music and great festivals.
Growing up here has made me kind and passionate. Thanks to West Cork, I developed a strong connection to nature and arts and I can value the good things in life. You care for each other here. And it’s a place where you realise things take time. It helps you to slow down. It’s magical.
Etta x